Local Resources
Resource List
Ordinance, Publications, Journals & Reports
YouTube Channels & Videos
Pollinator Plant List
Books, Guides & Literature
Entry Requirements for Honey Bee Hives
Hive Management Best Practices
History of Beekeeping In The U.S.
Shipping Requirements for Package Bees & Queens
Varroa Management Presentation
Books
Garden Plants for Honey Bees – Peter Lindtner
Keeping Bees Alive: Sustainable Beekeeping Essentials – Lawrence J. Connor
Package Essentials: Production, Installation, Management – Lawrence J. Connor
Increase Essentials, Second Edition – Lawrence J. Connor
Bee-sentials: Field Guide – Lawrence J. Connor with Robert Muir
The Honey Cookbook – Juliette Elkon
BeeCabulary Essentials – Andrew Connor
Honey Bee Biology and Beekeeping Third Edition – Dewey M. Caron with Lawrence J. Connor
Swarm Team & Sellers List
WAB Swarm Removal Team
2023 Virginia Queen and Nuc Certificate Sellers
Disclaimer: This list was certified in 2023 and may contain sellers that are no longer active. This list is not an endorsement of any kind by WAB.
Ask A Beekeeper FAQ
How many hives should I purchase?
Starting with two hives has a lot of advantages than keeping a single colony. Two colonies allow beekeepers to compare the two, use resources from one to another, combine weak colonies, and provide opportunities to split hives to increase an apiary and help with swarm prevention.
Where can I buy bees?
Purchasing honeybees from a local source is highly recommended. Bees within your local area are accumulated to the climate and are familiar with the resources. A list of local sellers can be found under our resource list. It’s important to note; honeybees sold on comb, hives and equipment with comb must be accompanied by a certificate of health issued by the Office of Plant Industry Services prior to being sold in Virginia. Ref VDACS website
How to catch a swarm?
There are different approaches to catch a swarm. The approach used will depend on the location of the swarm (e.g. high in a tree, on the ground). We recommend you contact a WAB swarm team member first. Ensure you have the appropriate tools and safety equipment on hand before starting your swarm catch.
How and when is the best time to feed my bees?
When to feed bees: Feeding honeybees may be necessary throughout the season not only to supplement the resources honeybees lack, but for their sustainability and survival. These times may include a seasonal dearth, a period of time when a significant absence of nectar is present, a climate change (e.g. reduction in rainfall, higher/colder temperatures), establishing a new hive or a significant event such as a forest fire.
How to feed bees: There are several delivery methods to feed bees. Some methods include frame feeder, entrance feeders, hive top feeders and open container feeders. Only use granulated white sugar. Granulated white sugar is most similar to nectar. Never use organic, brown sugar or powdered sugar. These other sugars contain additives that can harm bees. For example, brown sugar contains molasses which can cause dysentery.
You may also choose to use protein supplements to feed their bees. However, no supplement is a complete replacement for natural nectar or pollen.
Spring March-April-May: 1:2 formula is a light syrup using one part sugar to two parts water. For example, 1 pound sugar to 2 pounds of water. This will stimulate the queen to lay eggs and help bees draw more comb.
Summer June-July-August: 1:1 formula is a medium syrup using one part sugar to one part water. For example, 1 pound of sugar to 1 pound of water. It is used as an artificial nectar to feed brood larvae in spring and summer or to get the bees to draw more comb. Fall Sept-Oct-Nov: 2:1 formula is a very heavy syrup using two parts of sugar to one part of water. For example, 2 pounds of sugar to 1 pound of water. This is used in fall or early winter as a honey substitute to feed your bees. The bees should add weight and will use these stores throughout winter. Stop feeding once the daytime temperatures drop below 57° F. Liquid syrup puts too much moisture in the colony, and the bees are unable to evaporate the excess moisture.
How to prevent/stop robbing in my hive?
Prevention
- Maintain queenright colonies of uniform strength and in good equipment.
- Work colonies carefully but quickly during nectar dearths.
- Use an entrance reducer on all colonies during times of nectar dearth.
- Always keep supers covered when removing them to work a colony.
- Do not work more than one colony at a time.
- Remove any excess supers or honey that the bees in a colony are unable to protect.
- Equalize colonies (i.e. take steps to make them similar in strength).
- Move weaker colonies to another location.
- Avoid dripping syrup, nectar, or honey on the outside surfaces of or the ground around hives.
- Work colonies later in the day to reduce the amount of daylight hours bees have to rob.
- When feeding colonies, always keep external feeder surfaces free of syrup and clean up any syrup spills.
- Do not leave wax, honey debris, or combs exposed in the apiary.
Stopping
Beekeepers who notice robbing behavior at their colonies should take necessary action to stop the behavior before it escalates into a frenzy.
- Eliminate the stimulus. Bees are attracted to sticky, sugary substances. Remove easy-to-access honey, sugar syrup, refuse combs, etc.
- Close (reassemble) any colonies being worked while robbing is occurring.
- Clean or cover exposed honey or syrup.
- Cover or plug any openings in vulnerable hives with tape, grass, or other materials. These openings can occur between supers on a hive, between the bottom board and hive body, and between the uppermost super and hive lid.
- Reduce the entrance of the colony being robbed. During cooler months, the entrances can be reduced to a point where only 1–5 bees are able to exit/enter at a time.
- Smoking bees is not an effective way to stop robbing behavior.
- Some beekeepers report being able to calm the robbing behavior by running overhead sprinkler irrigation on the colonies being robbed. This discourages the robbing bees, who return to their own colonies.
- If these steps do not reduce robbing behavior, the victim colonies should be removed from the apiary and located elsewhere until they are strong enough to protect themselves.
How do I treat my bee hives for mites?
Follow these steps of the Varroa Management Decision Tool: Varroa Management Decision Tool
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